Springtime in Paris

From Salzburg I took a quick sidestep back into Germany just in time to celebrate Orthodox Easter with Katya and her friends in Munich. Although I was sad to spend a second Pascha away from my family, it was interesting as always to compare and contrast Easter traditions across the pond with my own. Here we are breaking the fast finally around 5AM.

Four hours later, Katya made me a German breakfast and I attempted to make her an American one (note: the bacon that says “American bacon” in German grocery stores will shrivel up, fall apart, and taste like a much sadder version of the real thing). I gulped down breakfast and headed for the airport to catch my flight to Paris, but not before stopping to get a Munich Butter Brez'n which I had literally dreamt of after leaving Germany. Katya had sent me off with a Paschal care package of kulich, chocolate bunnies, and eggs which led to some eyebrow raising by German airport security officers who asked why in the world I had these sweets a week after Easter.

Before beginning research in Paris, Nich came to meet me for a few days, and we were hosted by my lovely friends Vivian and Jonathan who showed us a great time and introduced us to the nooks and crannies of Paris that make it so wonderful.

Since Nich and I both had been to Paris before, we took advantage of the time to see some of the sites outside the city. The first was Giverny, the tiny village made famous for Monet’s house & Japanese garden. Even though it was a tourist attraction in a touristy town it was nice to get out of the city and take in the French countryside (even through just a train window). Even though we came early in the season, the gardens were already in bloom, and it was hard not to be envious of the atmosphere Monet created for himself.

Of course, I accidentally didn’t bring enough money for the bus fare back to the train station, and Giverny although beautiful and cute did not boast a single cash machine. I was only a few euros short and quickly located a lovely elderly couple from Texas to trade some of the quarters in my purse for the money I needed. If I’ve learned anything this trip it is that (almost) every problem is an opportunity to interact with other travelers and locals alike who will help you and inevitably strike up a conversation (and as I have learned, long conversation if they are from Texas…).

We also took a day out to Versailles to visit Louis’ fancy palace and imagine what life was like for the royal family. As we strolled through the gardens, it was easy to see which elements Peter the Great stole for his own palace at Peterhof outside of St. Petersburg. After hitting the major items on our list to see we spent the rest of the time wandering the streets and canals, ordering coffess and crepes in terrible French, and debating if the Eiffel Tower was indeed a pleasant thing to look at.

After Nich left for NY with all my winter clothes in tow, Vivien and I would meet in the evenings to explore new areas and find amazing 1 euro vintage dress deals, We went to a fabulous exhibit on Lumiere at the Grand Palace (where Michael Moore and camera crew were also in attendance). I will never stop wanting to go France. Hopefully next time I can get out to explore the south and the countryside and more of the things that make France so wonderful.

Austria

Vienna as everyone knows is classical music (and chocolate cake!) heaven. Two of my favorite things. After long research days in the library, I “treated” myself to a 3 euro standing ticket to see Tosca in the Vienna Opera House and a concert of assorted Mozart pieces at the Philharmonic. Both were exceptional concerts in exquisite buildings. At Tosca, the stage set changed after every act, and the entire audience let out a synchronized gasp at the incredible stage for the final act.

                                                     The beautiful interior of the opera house:

And the Philharmonic: 

I was fortunate enough to spend Catholic Eastertime in Vienna. Every shop and department store window had incorporated Easter eggs or chickens into their display which made walking around Vienna in its blistery weather much more enjoyable. When the rain subsided I headed off to Schloss Schönbrunn for its giant Easter market stock full of homemade Austrian souvenirs, Easter eggs, and delicious Austrian street food.

Per my friend Kristen’s suggestion, I got a sumptuous crumbled waffle with plum filling called Zwetschgenkompott. Forgive how unfocused the photo is; I was too excited about eating it.

On Orthodox Lazarus Saturday, I went with my lovely hosts, Dima and Yulia, to the Orthodox chapel in the Zentralfriedhof Cemetery to celebrate its feast day and explore the cemetery, resting place of many composers including Beethoven, Brahms, Strauss, and Schubert.

On Catholic Easter, I walked out to the Lichtental Church where Schubert was baptized in 1797 and later wrote many pieces for use in the church. The church’s Easter mass included Haydn’s Nelson Mass, Schubert’s Regina Coeli, and finally Handel’s “Hallelujah” chorus beautifully performed by professional musicians and the church choir. Note: this was my first Catholic mass that wasn’t a wedding. They also had pew seat warmers. I was thoroughly impressed.

On my way out of Vienna, I stopped at the State Hall of the Austrian National Library for a glimpse of the beautiful library built in 1726. The library was commissioned by Emperor Charles VI and therefore it is only fitting that the beautiful frescos on the ceiling, right above the marble statue of him, are meant to illustrate his deification as emperor.

My next stop in Austria was Mozart’s Birthplace- Salzburg where I unfortunately came down with a nasty cold and wasn’t able to do much for the first few days except sit in my hostel and feel sorry for myself. Thankfully, on my last day I was feeling a bit better and went on a Sound of Music tour through Salzburg and the Bavarian Lake region. I opted for a smaller van tour than a huge bus one and spent the day with our Austrian guide and three Filipino sisters. As we drove through the mountains, our guide told us stories of the real Von Trapp family as well as anecdotes from the shooting of the film, all while playing the SOM soundtrack in the background. Here are a few sites from our SOM pilgrimage:

 The gazebo wasn't actually used for the famous Ralph and Liezl scene (that was done in a studio) because it was too small but was still used on set in many scenes.

The church used for the filming of the wedding scene.

The gnome from the film in the gardens that also had the "Do-Re-Mi" steps.

After driving through the Bavarian Lake district with the Sound of Music soundtrack playing in the background, we stopped in Hallstatt, a beautiful town nestled into the mountainside, for lunch.

I ended the day by finally trying apple strudel on my last day in Austria. I can say without reservation it is really all it’s cracked up to be.

Hungary

Szia and welcome to Hungary!

(Szia is Hungarian for hello and goodbye and is conveniently pronounced as “see ya”).

I immediately fell in love with Budapest. I think it is impossible to dislike this country boasting soothing thermal spas, delicious goulash, and an intriguing paprika obsession. Take for example Lángos, a Hungarian specialty consisting of Hungarian fried dough, sour cream, and cheese. Three delicious ingredients that when combined make for the best street food.

Their metro stations are quite adorable.

Hungary is also home to many innovators who produced inventions such as the Rubik’s cube, the holography, the ball point pen, etc. Hungarians also claim one of the most difficult languages in the world, an Uralic language in the same language family as Finnish and Estonian. However, for me, the most fascinating piece of Hungarian, more specifically Budapest, history can be told through its surviving Jewish sites.

The Great Synagogue or Dohany Street Synagogue was built by the Neolog Hungarian Jewish community in 1854 and is the still the largest synagogue in Europe. The Neologs, a reform movement within Hungarian Judaism, were more willing to assimilate into Hungarian society and, therefore, Ludwig Förster, a Viennese architect, built it in a Moorish style, quite unlike traditional synagogues. It is also said to have been somewhat based on biblical descriptions of the Temple of Solomon. The most unique synagogue I have seen: stained glass windows, long rows of pews and kneelers, chandeliers, etc. Fun fact: Franz Liszt was the first to play the organ at the synagogue’s inauguration. The Dohany Street Synagogue stands on the border of the former Jewish ghetto and was used as a Nazi radio tower and Adolf Eichman’s headquarters in Budapest during the war thus sparing it from being completely destroyed.

Next to the synagogue is a cemetery of mass graves of more than 2,000 Jews buried after the Soviet liberation of the city. 

This beautiful memorial, the “Tree of Life”, was built as an upside down menorah. Each of the 4,000 leaves has a Holocaust victim’s name on it, and additional leaves are added frequently.

Deeper into the Jewish quarter is the Orthodox synagogue, a Talmud school, a multitude of kosher shops and butchers, and the only remaining mikvah in the city. According to my tour guide, the mikvah was incredibly expensive as they cleaned the pipes out with kosher wine and hired an American supervisor for the project who demanded on being flown home every Thursday to be with his family on Shabbat. On my morning walk to take more pictures I spotted an early morning matzo delivery.

Of course, the Jewish quarter is now home to the famous Budapest Ruin Pubs that are scattered throughout the district. Every pub was transformed from a previously abandoned building, and each has its own quirky decorations incorporating a hodgepodge of items-anything from cars to computer monitors to bathtubs to...well anything you can think of.

Budapest is divided into Buda and Pest by the Danube River which runs from Germany through Vienna, Budapest, Belgrade all the way to the Black Sea. On the banks of the river, I found the most touching memorial I have encountered on my trip. It was built specifically to remember those Jews who were ordered to take off their shoes before being shot and thrown into the Danube by the Arrow Cross fascists in 1944-5. 

Further down the Danube near the Parliament building is a controversial memorial to the Holocaust erected by the Hungarian government last year. The monument depicts a German eagle attacking the Archangel Gabriel (Hungary). 

Many groups have criticized the monument, arguing that it downplays the large role Hungary played in the Holocaust. As I walked by, I noticed an ongoing protest with memorial stones, photos, and other personal effects meant to urge the Hungarian government to remove the monument.

It is not often that I am given any insight into the political topics that the society of the country I am visiting is grappling with. Stumbling upon these sites gave me a lot to ponder on my bus ride to Vienna: my next stop.

Romania

Close your eyes and imagine Romania. Does the image that comes to mind explode with incredible bookstores? Well, it should! Get vampires out of your head! Romania for me was the land of amazing bookstores, both well-known chains as well as independent ones. Every Romanian city and town I went to surprised me with its multitude of bookstores, each with its own creative look or theme which made it distinctive and stand out from its competitors. Take for example this new bookstore in Bucharest called “Carturesti Carusel” or “Carusel of Lights”, aptly named considering the incredibly airy feeling of the refurbished 19^th century building with its six floors stocked full of books, albums, Romanian products, an art gallery, café, designated reading floor, etc. Basically Romanian bookstore heaven.

Another interesting site in Romania’s capital is its Palace of Parliament-still a controversial building. Construction began on the building in 1983, designed and overseen by Ceaușescu, who wanted to place every Romanian political institution in the building. As the building was only completed in 1997, years after the fall of communism and the execution of Ceaușescu, it was never used for its original purpose.

 A few numbers attached to this building:

- It is the largest building in Europe and second largest in the world (the Pentagon is first).

- Inside one can find 220,000 square meters of carpet and 3,500 tons of crystal

-30,000 people were displaced for the construction of the building

-19 Orthodox churches, 3 Protestant churches, and 6 Jewish Synagogues were demolished for its construction

-200 architects and roughly 20,000 workers on site worked around the clock for the project

-the carpet in the ballroom weights over 1.5 tons

-the stairs were redone twice since Ceaușescu, a man of short stature, wanted to be able to walk down them to greet guests without having to glance down.

one of the many huge rooms

There is a rumor that Donald Trump wanted to purchase the building and turn it into the world’s largest casino. The tour guide would neither confirm nor deny this…

Leaving Bucharest, I hopped on a train to Brasov, a city in Transylvania surrounded by the Carpathian mountains. I sat across from a Romanian teenager who heard me fumble my way through my awful Romanian with the conductor, and I saw his eyes widen as he realized I was American. Twenty minutes later as I sat reading my book, he passed me his phone which said “hello, my name is Alexander. I am too embarrassed by my English to speak. But could we write messages?”. Alexander and I spent the next three hours writing back and forth, and I learned a lot about his life in Romania, his joys, his struggles, his favorite Romanian foods. Every message was perfectly punctuated and spelled. I’m not quite convinced his English was that poor.

I snapped a quick picture of Alex typing out a message on the way.

In Brasov I was met on the platform by three lovely Romanian ladies who dedicated the following few days to showing me around the city. They showered me with incredible hospitality as they introduced me to Romanian food, the best views of the city, and even more cool bookstores.

They made sure to send me off to Sinaia with Romanian tea and gifts and promises of meeting again soon.

Upon arrival in Sinaia I made my way through town, past the peaceful Sinaia monastery, up a path through the woods to Peles Castle, one of the most interesting places I have ever been. 

Construction begun in 1874 by order of King Carol I of Romania. Each of the 160 rooms of the palace is inspired by a different theme-Florentine, Moorish, Turkish, Venetian, Chinese, Indian, French- the list goes on and on. Each room had specialty items and décor from these exotic places- Turkish izmir rugs from Anatolia for the “Turkish saloon”, paintings signed by various artists, bronze doors in the Florentine room from Rome, Murano crystal chandeliers, Cordoba leather, etc. On our tour we went through two armory rooms that hold a total of 4,000 pieces of weaponry. The palace has had central heating and electricity since 1883. A feat indeed! Our guide pointed out secret passageways, including a secret door in the library (which was stocked full of beautiful books in multiple languages) so that the king could disappear at any moment. I normally opt out of paying for a ticket to take photographs and take mental pictures if need be, but here I went back and spent my dinner money on taking pictures of this spectacular unusual building.

My last destination in Romania was Sibiu, a quaint Transylvanian city where the sun finally decided to come out of hiding for me.

Here is a view of Sibiu from one of the main churches in the city.

I spent my last day in Romania exploring the underground bookstore scene, sampling delicious Romanian street food, and learning about Romanian artists in the Brunkenthal National Museum.

The only downside to this otherwise charming country is that Romania still permits smoking in public places and restaurants. It was nearly impossible to find a café that did not suffocate you with smoke upon entering. Thankfully, most of the aforementioned bookstores had lovely smoke-free cafes. So my advice if you venture to Romania (which you definitely should)- find the bookstores. And the castles.